Ok, well here I am now about half way down the length of this incredible country, can't quite grasp how big it is... Certainly nobody ever told me before I booked myself on two overnight bus journeys and two overnight train journeys. All a/c free, of course, and not a stick of deodorant in sight.
Anyhow, feeling particularly decadent this afternoon, after having found a sweet family-run tailor shop who can create pretty much anything I ask for for ludicruous prices. Wasn't really looking for anything, but am about to go and pick up a fantastically camp cream/white suit, (getting in the whole colonial idea a bit much maybe) some pin-stripe black trousers, and three shirts. All made in 24 hours - for the fraction of the price it'll cost you in HK, Singapore, or even Shenzhen. Plus you get pampered by Vietnamese chicks who tell you that their granny fancies you. Great for the ego.
But, my friends, none of this would be complete, or as much wanton spending were it not for my hand-made blue suede shoes. Oh yes, oh yes. Just because I can. Not sure I can wear them with anything I possess, but surely it's one of those life rites you have to go through - how can anyone pass up the opportunity to have some blue suede shoes made? Life feels great right now as a result.
Cheated a little bit on my way down by grabbing a plane from Hanoi to Da Nang - (used to be the 3rd busiest airport in the world during the war, supposedly - which is madness when you think about it). Nearly didn't make it though after enlisting the help of the frikkin slowest and most inept taxi driver in the whole of South East Asia - I shit you not. This dude in Hanoi was deliberately taking every longer route possible, was being overtaken by the swarms of shitty motorbikes on the main drag to the airport, and was driving painfully, excruciatingly slow. Sadly, my Vietnamese isn't quite up to being able to berate him for his pathetic driving ability, but I also didn't think it would help our cause that much either - we were at the mercy of his souped-up Honda and unpredictable motoring whims.
All was going to plan, if somewhat snail-paced, when the police decided to close the entire road to the airport - in both directions. Prime Minister of Myanmar was in town, apparently, and to show respect you clearly have to bring the city's traffic to a standstill.
So with a broad grin he pointed to the policemen, undid his seatbelt, and turned the radio up loud to bombard us in the back with Vietnamese Hit parade. I was having a serious sense of humour failure as I watched the taxi-meter tick....and tick....and tick....and tick....
Made it with about 5 minutes to spare, although a group of heavily made-up middle aged Italian women kept the plane from taking off on time, presumably on some cosmetic surgery tour of Asia judging by their dodgy facelifts and bright orange or purple hair.
Anyhow, Hoi An, where I find myself at the moment, is a true delight. The French colonial atmosphere gives it a real charm, the walls washed with yellow and blue gleam in the intense sun, as bright pink and purple flowers tumble over them from the cool courtyards behind. The pace of life is so slow it's going in reverse- and it feels just so relaxing. Aside from the fact that everyone is trying to sell you something - people on every street corner hawking even water, of all things - it is a great break from the madness of Hanoi and the forceful selling mode of the hill tribes.
It's just so easy to get carried away buying and buying and buying here - when you can get an awesome tailored suit for US$30, it's hard to say no - and that's even before you get illusions of getting shoes made in a ridiculous colour.
Next stop is party town on the beach, Nha Trang, before ending the trip in Saigon where I've got another couple of freebie nights in a posh hotel where I can chill my boots for a while. Perhaps time for another cold one before the bus tonight. Fantastic.Ok, well here I am now about half way down the length of this incredible country, can't quite grasp how big it is... Certainly nobody ever told me before I booked myself on two overnight bus journeys and two overnight train journeys. All a/c free, of course, and not a stick of deodorant in sight.
Anyhow, feeling particularly decadent this afternoon, after having found a sweet family-run tailor shop who can create pretty much anything I ask for for ludicruous prices. Wasn't really looking for anything, but am about to go and pick up a fantastically camp cream/white suit, (getting in the whole colonial idea a bit much maybe) some pin-stripe black trousers, and three shirts. All made in 24 hours - for the fraction of the price it'll cost you in HK, Singapore, or even Shenzhen. Plus you get pampered by Vietnamese chicks who tell you that their granny fancies you. Great for the ego.
But, my friends, none of this would be complete, or as much wanton spending were it not for my hand-made blue suede shoes. Oh yes, oh yes. Just because I can. Not sure I can wear them with anything I possess, but surely it's one of those life rites you have to go through - how can anyone pass up the opportunity to have some blue suede shoes made? Life feels great right now as a result.
Cheated a little bit on my way down by grabbing a plane from Hanoi to Da Nang - (used to be the 3rd busiest airport in the world during the war, supposedly - which is madness when you think about it). Nearly didn't make it though after enlisting the help of the frikkin slowest and most inept taxi driver in the whole of South East Asia - I shit you not. This dude in Hanoi was deliberately taking every longer route possible, was being overtaken by the swarms of shitty motorbikes on the main drag to the airport, and was driving painfully, excruciatingly slow. Sadly, my Vietnamese isn't quite up to being able to berate him for his pathetic driving ability, but I also didn't think it would help our cause that much either - we were at the mercy of his souped-up Honda and unpredictable motoring whims.
All was going to plan, if somewhat snail-paced, when the police decided to close the entire road to the airport - in both directions. So with a broad grin he pointed to the policemen, undid his seatbelt, and turned the radio up loud to bombard us in the back with Vietnamese Hit parade. I was having a serious sense of humour failure as I watched the taxi-meter tick....and tick....and tick....and tick....
Made it with about 5 minutes to spare, although a group of heavily made-up middle aged Italian women kept the plane from taking off on time, presumably on some cosmetic surgery tour of Asia judging by their dodgy facelifts and bright orange or purple hair.
Anyhow, Hoi An, where I find myself at the moment, is a true delight. The French colonial atmosphere gives it a real charm, the walls washed with yellow and blue gleam in the intense sun, as bright pink and purple flowers tumble over them from the cool courtyards behind. The pace of life is so slow it's going in reverse- and it feels just so relaxing. Aside from the fact that everyone is trying to sell you something - people on every street corner hawking even water, of all things - it is a great break from the madness of Hanoi and the forceful selling mode of the hill tribes.
It's just so easy to get carried away buying and buying and buying here - when you can get an awesome tailored suit for US$30, it's hard to say no - and that's even before you get illusions of getting shoes made in a ridiculous colour.
Next stop is party town on the beach, Nha Trang, before ending the trip in Saigon where I've got another couple of freebie nights in a posh hotel where I can chill my boots for a while. Perhaps time for another cold one before the bus tonight. Fantastic.